How to Lift Downward Lashes: A Step-by-Step Korean Lash Lift Guide

Have you ever had a client tell you, "Lash lifts never work on me"?

Very often, she has downward-growing lashes, also called umbrella lashes. These lashes point down toward the cheek instead of growing forward. They can be lifted beautifully, but they need a different plan than an average eye.

Here is how I lift them, step by step.

Step 1: Check the lash direction while she's sitting up

Before you choose anything, take photos from the front and the side while your client is sitting upright. When she lies down, gravity changes how the lashes fall, and the downward direction is much harder to see.

From the side, you can clearly see where the roots point. If they point down, plan for this lash type from the very start. (More on this in Why You Should Always Assess Lash Lift Clients While Seated.)

Step 2: Tape so the roots are fully exposed

Taping matters even more for this lash type. If you don't expose the roots clearly and secure the bottom lashes properly, it's almost impossible to get a good result.

Gently pull the upper and lower skin until you see a slight crease. For the bottom lashes, just catch and secure them. Don't tape too close to the lash line.

Shop: Nichiban Tape | Yukiban Clear Tape

Step 3: Soften longer, in rounds

In the Korean lash lift method, I place the lashes on a flat rod with Magic Balm (no glue) and soften there first. Then I move the lashes to the design shield.

Downward lashes almost always need more softening time than average. One of my clients with umbrella lashes didn't have thick lashes at all, but her softening always took longer than most of my clients. She told me her lash lifts had always failed at other salons.

Shop: Lifted Lounge Perm Solution | Wide Fit Flat Rods | Ultra Slim Flat Rods | Magic Balm

Step 4: Don't size up on the design shield

It feels natural to reach for a bigger shield when lashes are hard to lift. But on downward lashes, a big shield spends its work just bringing the lashes back to level. The curl ends up looking too natural, and the lift barely shows.

Use the true size instead. On Easy No-Glue Shields, place the lashes at about 80 to 90% of the shield's height and keep the inner section tight. For the umbrella-lash client above, I used Easy No-Glue Shields in size M with a longer softening time, and the curl came out defined and actually held.

If your client wants a sharper, more dramatic root, Edge No-Glue Shields (L curl) are another good option. Just ask about the look she wants first.

Want to go deeper on shield choice? Read Why You Must Check Lash Direction Before Sizing Your Shield.

Step 5: Set, finish, and check her sitting up again

Apply Step 2 to set the curl, then finish with Keratin Cream. When you're done, have her sit up and take the same front and side photos. That's your real "after," not what you see on the bed.

If the lift still looks weak, you can usually fix it in the chair with 1 to 3 more minutes of softening and 3 to 4 minutes of setting, as long as the first softening was done properly.

Step 6: Write it down for next time

Note the shield size, how many softening rounds she needed, and how long each one took. At her next visit, look at how the lift grew out and adjust from there.

Downward lashes are the kind of eye that fails at other salons. So when you get it right, she has every reason to stay with you.

 

Want the full method with real case studies and step-by-step troubleshooting? Check out my online course, Korean Lash Lift: Perfect Curl Method.

Happy lifting!
Alynn · Lifted Lounge

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